Southern Peru-Bolivia Day 12

Day 12 - Thursday, November 6, 2014 - Tiwanaku Archeological Site; Pumapunku Temple Complex; Lytic Museum

After breakfast Vic reset the GPS and took the weather reading. The temperature was 41 degrees with 87% humidity. The hot sun and thin air made it feel so much warmer.

At 8:30 we started our crawl out of the city. Taxis and vans were bringing more than 20,000 commuters from neighboring El Alto into the commercial community La Paz. Hopefully, as the cable car system gets more popular, the rush hour congestion will diminish.

Passing through the sprawling city of El Alto took almost an hour. Mario continued to tell us about real life growing up in La Paz and the history of recessions and hard times in the city.

When we got into the countryside, we could see the dry land farming techniques and a few herds of sheep and cattle. Small adobe farmhouses dotted the arid land of the Altiplano, the "high plains" of Bolivia.

Our drive took us 75 kilometers or 46 miles west of La Paz over rough roads with some major construction. To pass the time, Mario gave us more information about the importance and production of the original 300 types of potatoes.

As we got closer to our destination, Mario told us more about the Tiwanaku culture that flourished from 300 BC and AD 1,000. These pre-Incan people were known as artisans, their pottery, jewelry and textiles were highly developed.

Archaeologists have found drainage ditches and canals for fresh water and irrigation. The valley and the ancient city are Bolivia’s most important archaeological sites.

Once located on the southern shore of Lake Titicaca, the lake has receded in this area leaving fertile farmland. Tiwanaku is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The first stop was to use the rest rooms and visit the Lytic Museum where artifacts from the pyramids or temples were found. The highlight was the 20-foot monolith representing Pachamama, or Mother Earth.

We toured the huge Akupana Pyramid and observed a team of archaeologists working the site. The base has been restored since the 1960’s, but sadly the whole site was used as a stone quarry for the town of Tiwanaku. The Basilica in the village was built from the expertly carved stones of the ancient peoples.

As we investigated the vast complex, Mario gave us more information about each of the major sites. Pepé took our picture at the Gate of the Kalasasaya - "Place of the Vertical Stones". The enormity of these carved stones is remarkable. Mario also told us that only 5% of the Tiwanaku site has been explored.

We had lunch in the village at the Tiwanaku Hotel. After lunch at 1:30 we had one more stop to make, the Puma Punku Temple complex. We saw the massive red sandstone slabs thought to have been quarried from the distant mountains and then possibly rolled to Puma Punku on tree logs.

Both sites were very impressive. The stonework as well as the astrological alignment is mind-boggling. Some think that the Puma Punku Temple complex must have been built with the help of extraterrestrials. Now that is something to ponder!

We arrived back at the hotel at 3:30 and walked down to the grocery store, about 7 blocks. The good news is that the walk down was easy; the bad news is that you have to walk back uphill.

Back at the hotel, Gennie bought a few post cards and stamps and Vic went to the rooftop of the hotel to take a few photos of Illimani (Aymara) (6,438 meters – 21,122 feet), the highest mountain in the Cordillera Real Range.

We had a relaxing evening finishing the journal, writing post cards, and doing a little hand laundry. At 3,650 meters or 11,975 feet, it is good to take a break!

Accommodations: Radisson Plaza Hotel La Paz --- Meals: B & L

To receive $50 per person off your first reservation with OAT, mention the following information when reserving your Overseas Adventure Travel Trip: Mr. Victor Garcia Customer #673062

Sounds like you saw two amazing sites. What craftsmanship in their work! The photo of the moonrise over La Paz is fantastic!

Day 10: Mediterranean Navigation

Antonio, Our Guide

Gardens at the Alcazaba

Roman Theater

Visiting with Picasso

Gennie & Vic, Malaga 2004

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