Complete Cuba


Day 03 - Saturday, January 11, 2014 - Depart Cienfuegos; Drive to the UNESCO Valle De Los Ingenios; Visit Manaca Iznaga Plantation; Travel to the Port City of Trinidad; Walk and Meet the People in this Colonial City; Visit Casa Del Alfarero Santander; Dinner at La Rosa Paladar

Our morning began with a buffet breakfast at the hotel. Vic went out to test the weather; 77 degrees and 81% humidity. Gennie bought a few post cards and stamps.

On the way out of Cienfuegos, Claudia talked to us about the limited cell phone and internet policies. Only in 2008 were cell phones allowed and internet is very slow and expensive. No Cuban homes are allowed internet; only a few of the larger hotels and then they are only for the tourists' use with many sites blocked.

Our drive west took us through the spectacular Valle De Los Ingenios - Valley of the Sugar Mills - an UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site. We saw the abandoned shells of 19th century sugar estates.

We stopped at the settlement of Pepito Tey and met Pedro Gonzales, a former railroad engineer that drove the train transporting the cane and refined sugar to the ports. We visited one of the manor houses, the slave quarters, and the tall chimneys of the refinery.

Because of the drop in the price of sugar and the lack of support due to the collapse of the Soviet Union, the sugar exporting industry was abandoned. During the 19th century there were more than 40 sugar mills with elaborate estate houses but now most are in ruin.

The roadside was bordered by small plots of mango trees, manioc gardens, sugar cane fields used for domestic purposes, and small homes with one horse, one cow, and a few chickens. There was electricity but no running water.

We made a "biological" stop at Villa Yaguanabo, a small resort on the sea. We are finding that restrooms are hard to come by so we have to take advantage of any modern facility and always carry toilet paper.

In another hour we were at the city of Trinidad, a colonial settlement of the Spanish era. Founded in 1514, it was very crowded with people celebrating the anniversary festival and those who were selling them rum or a hand made cigar!

We stopped at the Cultural House, an old sugar mansion, where young people can come when they are not in school. They do crafts, play games, and watch TV. Today many were busy preparing for the anniversary parade.

We peeked into the Cathedral of Trinidad, dedicated to the Virgin of Charity. Cubans are balanced in their religious practices. About 40% are Afro-Cuban, 40% are Catholic, and 20% do not practice any organized religion.

Trinidad, is an UNESCO World Heritage Site with its red tiled roofs and pastel painted buildings along the cobbled streets. Sugar cane made it a wealthy city and 18th century smugglers and pirates used this port as a home base in the Caribbean.

In the colonial heart of the city we stopped at a small cafe for a drink typical of the area called Canchanchara. It is made with honey, lime juice, aguardiente (fermented sugar cane juice), ice, and water.

We walked back to the bus where Eliecer was waiting for us with the air conditioning running full blast! Our lunch was in the old town jail, called Restaurante Plaza Santa Ana. The buffet featured vegetables, roast pork, shredded beef, and chicken, with ice cream for dessert.

After lunch we drove a short distance to Casa Del Alfarero Santander, an artisan workshop, where we learned about traditional pottery. The most exciting thing in the shop was an old Ford roadster convertible with a 1931/32 Cuban license plate.

When we arrived at our Cuban resort hotel, we got our blue all-inclusive bracelets, found the room, unpacked our bathing suits, and headed for the beach. We explored this huge government owned facility.

Although it looked nice overall, it was not well maintained but the staff was very helpful and the air-conditioning worked. We enjoyed sitting by the pool and hearing all of the various languages of the international guests.

At 6:45 we were told to be at the lobby to go for dinner. When we did not see the bus we wondered what was going on. Bolivar Sanchez (Boli), our IE director was there when two of the famous Classic American cars pulled up to take us to dinner.

We rode to a small village close to Trinidad in a 1953 green and white Buick. Our friends rode in a 1952 cherry red Chevy. When we said going to Cuba was going back to the 50's, we felt we were truly in a time warp!

Dinner was served in a family style restaurant called Paladar La Rosa. It was more like being in the La Rosa's home. The extended family welcomed us with an orange juice and rum drink and we were serenaded by an older gentleman who sang and played the guitar for us.

Musical instruments were passed around and soon we were all participating in the music. Our dinner was a baked red snapper stuffed with shrimp and lobster. We also had many vegetables and beans and rice.

At 10:00 we returned to the hotel and enjoyed a good night's sleep.

Accommodations: HOTEL CLUB AMIGO ANCÓN - - - Meal: B, L, D

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  Comments

Great picture. This is really going back in time! Old man, burro and cobble street.

María   January 23, 2014 - 1:44am
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Rolling a Cigar, La Canchanchara, Trinidad, Cuba

Rolling a Cigar, La Canchanchara, Trinidad, Cuba (1:08)

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Sugar Settlement

Sugar Settlement

Villa Yaguanabo

Villa Yaguanabo

On the Streets of Trinidad

On the Streets of Trinidad

Club Amigo Ancon

Club Amigo Ancon

Vic & Gennie and the 1953 Buick

Vic & Gennie and the 1953 Buick

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