Tuscan Hill Towns Day 9
Tuscan Hill Towns
DAY 09 - May 13, 2005 - Guided Tour Pienza, Gregorian Chants, Montalcino
Although the skies were gray this morning, it is warmer here in Pienza as we head south through the Italian country side. We smelled the coffee and fresh pastries early so we were up again before our wake up call at 7:00. Our breakfast buffet was the best we have had on this trip. There were fresh fruits, quiche, omelets, the city's famous cheeses and Italian meats. It was truly the best coffee I have had on this trip!
I brought my computer down to the lobby to the WI-FI area and was able to mail out the journal as this was a fast speed connection. Many of our group wanted to see the web site and marveled at the ease that I could view each day's journey. They enjoyed seeing the photos we have been taking and a few even asked to check their own e-mail, including Giulia. Internet is at a premium around here!
After a short walk into the old town we met our local guide, Isabel, who took us on a fascinating walking tour of medieval Pienza. We started with the Cathedral, which is usually closed to the public, but because they were cleaning it today, Isabel was able to get permission for us to go inside. She explained that it was commissioned by Pope Pius II who was born in this small village. He hired artisans from Siena to recreate the Renaissance beauty in the style of light and rebirth to honor his own memory. This whole area of the village was built on expansive clay soil so the church had to be stabilized to prevent it from sliding down the Tuscan hillside! Gennie lit a candle in remembrance of her Mom, Helen, who would have loved seeing all of the beautiful sites of this area.
Isabel gave us a very detailed history of the area as well as the political aspect of the government. She explained the agri-tours, an idea by the government to maintain the balance of agriculture and at the same time promote tourism and the traditional life style of the farmers of the region. We made our way full circle around the courtyard and ended at the Palazzo Piccolomini where we visited the beautiful central area. It was in this location where they filmed the Oscar-winning movie, The English Patient.
At 11:00 we said good-bye to Isabel and walked around on our own. This is not a touristy town so there were very few groups and no huge buses. We were able to stroll the back streets and take lots of photos. The specialty of this town and area is the famous aged hard Pecorino cheese and we were able to sample several different varieties in the shops. The sun came out about 11:30 and it gave us a nice warm walk, we have been so lucky to have great days to wander out of doors.
We had a perfect lunch at a little sandwich bar on the street, splitting a grilled white cheese and salami on a hard white roll and a Coke. It was just right as we have certainly had our share of food on this trip. Of course, Gen had an ice cream for dessert but it was only "small" one! We walked back to our hotel and found our clean but not pressed laundry waiting for us. While I worked on the 200+ pictures from the morning, Gennie ironed a few things so we are fresh, clean, and ready for the next few days.
At 1 PM, we drove through Montalcino seeing the light green rolling hills, dark green cypress trees, terra cotta villas with red tiled roofs, a colorful painting that will be forever fixed in our minds. We arrived at the St. Antimo Cistercian Abbey, situated in a valley meadow surrounded by vineyards. The now half ruined monastery was founded one thousand years ago and was made entirely from travertine, a local stone. The complex has many fine architectural gems, including a superb Romanesque Church. We had the pleasure of listening to the Monk's ethereal Gregorian chants for 20 minutes and then toured the Abbey.
After a brief stop at the restrooms and gift shop, we were also able to take see the old cemetery and the view of the Abbey across the rolling fields. We retraced our way back to Montalcino where we were able to spend 45 minutes exploring this hilly medieval town's streets and alleys. The sky was getting really dark and it began to sprinkle as we got back on the bus but once again, we had escaped the hard shower.
On the way home, a 30 minute drive, Dominico stopped on the side of a two lane road with no shoulder for us to take pictures of the cypress grove that denotes an old cemetery. This particular one is seen on many post cards and also appears on the Tuscan calendar for 2006 - the greenery was very rich. Just before we entered Pienza, he once again stopped for us to take a series of pictures of a field of red poppies. This one was spectacular and even the one to the right does not do it justice. It was a meadow of red with some yellow, purple, and white flowers interspersed.
To allow us to get off on the side of the Picollo Hotel and not have to cross the busy street, he drove down the mountain side, allowing us to see the valley below close up and then turned around and drove back up. He is an excellent driver and makes it look so easy. We are lucky to have a big bus with all the room and such a professional driver. I call him Il Capitano. He just laughs at me but enjoys to good natured ribbing.
We went out to dinner at 7:30 with most of our group to a local pizza place. We had the local cheese as an appetizer, then some other kinds as starters and then had a large variety of pizzas that we shared. Water and wine was also in abundance. We finished with two local desserts with a sweet wine. We walked home, said our goodnights and returned to our room for an early night to bed. Hopefully before 11 PM.
Accommodations: Piccolo Hotel Meals: B
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