DAY 12 - May 16, 2005 - Explore Orvieto
A sunny day greeted us as we woke up at 7:00 and then went down to our hotel's continental breakfast with our group. Again, we had cheese, meats, rolls, and there were several varieties of cereals. I had my usual bread, cheese, and jam while Gennie sticks to yogurt! I talked to the hotel manager about using the internet to send the journal, but he was not sure and spoke very little English. He was willing, but wanted me to wait until another clerk or Giulia could be there to speak better English.
We met our City Tour Guide, Manuela at 9:15 and she took us on a guide walking tour of Orvieto, this ancient Etruscan city, perched on a volcanic tufa summit, rising 1,000 feet above the River Paglia. With its narrow, twisting streets and high walls, the town has a medieval atmosphere, looking much like it did 500 years ago. She pointed out important sights and gave us explanations about what to do while we are in this city. She explained about the underground tours that are given according to language and Giulia went over to the town's center to get more information and times. Manuela took us to the three most important plazas of the city; that of the government, political, and religious. Under most of the foundations of the buildings and homes were found the remains of ancient Etruscan communities. The earth is literally honeycombed with caves and tunnels making it very difficult to build on the shaky foundation.
We walked back to the Duomo Piazza where Manuela told us about the festival of La Palombella that we observed yesterday. She gave us a remarkable account of the building of the cathedral that began in 1290 and was only finished 300 years later. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary of the Stars and is a beautiful marble and basalt showing black and white layers. Inside the church is very ornate with a huge pipe organ, the third largest in all of Italy. The frescoes in one of the side chapels depict the Apocalypse and are considered to be the most famous of the Renaissance Period. We were actually able to go up very close to see the intricate workings of the frescoes that showed depth and perspective in minute detail even though it is all done on a flat surface with color pigments and plaster.
At 10:30 we left Manuela and were on our own for the rest of the day. Giulia had made arrangements for us to tour the underground city/caves at 11:15. We bought our tickets and met a young woman who guided us on the tour of the underground. We had to walk a short distance to the edge of the tufa and then took a path to enter the caves. Just inside the entrance we stopped as she gave us an excellent explanation of how the rock formations were created and the history of the people who lived and worked in these caves. We could only see two of the 440 grottos as most are still privately owned. In ancient times these caves were used as primary dwellings and during the medieval times were used as wine cellars, storage areas as well as for protection during sieges of the city. Even today the caves that are privately owned are still used as wine cellars, root storage, and for garages.
At 12:15 we had lunch with several of our group and Giulia for sandwiches and salads. We had great conversations about the political aspects of present day Italian-American relations. Once again we understand that there are two sides to every story and that friends can agree to disagree about their political beliefs.
We made a brief stop back in our room at the Hotel Duomo, that is so centrally located, and then went out again to explore the small alleys of the city. We were able to see the tight city life that locals enjoy here, having all their necessities within a few city blocks.
We had been invited to a BYOB and Goodies get together tonight at 6:30 in Ron and Meredith's room so we searched for something unique to bring in addition to a bottle of Umbria red wine. We found a great butcher and cheese shop and Gennie and I negotiated a ½ kilo of the best salami we have tasted. Everyone enjoyed it and it went well with the cheese, crackers, nuts others brought to share.
After having such tasty appetizers and libations, we were not very hungry. But we decided to go out and split a couple of pizzas and a salad with Sy and Sharon. We walked to the shop we went to last night and the proprietress greeted us with a smile and good service. We four Americans had an opportunity to chat and find out a little more about each other while we watched the natives enjoy their dinners and friends. It was a very relaxed and enjoyable time.
Accommodations: Hotel Duomo Meals: B
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Day 13 - Saturday, April 22, 2022 - Depart for U.S.
The hotel prepared a box breakfast for us as we had to be in the lobby way before the breakfast room was open.
Last night we found out that our departure flight back to...