The Northern Isles

Day 15 - Thursday, July 24, 2003 - ms Rotterdam - At Sea & Cobh, Ireland

A good night’s sleep does wonders. We were up at 6:30 and ready for breakfast at 7:15. We had just spoken to Bob and Susan and they had been able to get a spot on the Blarney Castle and Woolen Mills trip with us.

We were in the Queens Lounge at 8 AM and we were told to go right away to the gangway and get on us 11. We were greeted by our quite young tour guide Mary - with a lovely Irish brogue - and Steve, our driver.

As we left the pier, Mary mentioned that the weather in Cobh and Cork had been really different than usual - lots of rain and moderate temperatures. We saw the dark clouds and the temperature in the 60's. We were on the Isle of Cobh (Cove), one of the major departure points for the Irish during the potato famine as they emigrated to the US (Ellis Island) and Australia.

We went through the city of Cork, proceeding northwest, and then drove to the city of Blarney and its Castle. The area was a lush green, with deciduous trees in their full perfection - no wonder they call it the Emerald Isle!

We were escorted in by Mary and then set loose on the castle. Unfortunately, there were many other tour groups ahead of us and we had to stand in line over 30 minutes to climb the stone spiral staircase to get to the roof and the Blarney Stone. The castle is in disrepair, only the stone portion is still standing - all the wood portions have deteriorated with time.

When we got to the top we followed the line to the stone. When our turn came we had to quickly lay on our backs on the parapet walk, slide toward the stone, grab hold of metal handrails supports and lower our heads down (being supported by a strong Irish lad) and in a brief moment, kiss the stone set beneath the battlement wall.

The historic Blarney Stone which, legend tells us, imparts the gift of eloquence to those who kiss it. The word “blarney” describes pleasant and entertaining conversation whose veracity is dubious. After this experience Gennie and I began babbling to everyone around us. Maybe we did that before we “kissed the stone?”

We continued our walk around the castle that showed its visitors many different rooms each with their own hanging private privies outside the walls of the castle. From above we were able to take in the natural beauty of the 400 acres of parkland, including an unusual garden laid out in 1759 on what is believed to be a Druid site, with huge boulders and a sacrificial altar.

While in Blarney we first stopped at the Woolen Mills Pub and took in an Irish Coffee. I got lucky again as Gennie does not like Irish Whisky or Coffee! I had two of these and also purchased two scones (for us and the Dersés), with raspberry jam and cream.

This area is also home to the famous Blarney Woolen Mills, a building which dates back to 1793, and there was time to browse through the wide range of Irish clothing, crystal, linen and handicrafts. It was a beautiful store that had very fine products (Irish wool and Waterford Crystal).

We were supposed to leave at 11:15, but two of our tour members got caught in a long checkout line and we anxiously awaited their return to the bus so we could leave.

Our drive back to Cork was in an increasing rain shower but not too severe. Mary was a very good guide, telling us stories and legends of Ireland. When we arrived in Cork—Ireland’s second largest city - we were amazed at the beauty of the city.

Its history dates back to the 6th century. The splendid French-Gothic Cathedral of St Finbarre (the city’s founder) stands where the saint established his monastic school circa 600AD. Much of the medieval core of the city is still intact, its colorful past is evident through its colorful areas.

Two rivers bisect the city and to move from one area to another, one has to cross its many bridges. The bus driver had to negotiate very tight turns on narrow streets with the big bus. He got several big hands from us as he made turns.

We left Cork and returned to Cohb. The tour through Cork County and the Lee Valley, a region steeped in 4,000 years of history, rich in culture and heritage ended when the bus left us at the ship under a hard rain.

We had planned to visit and walk through this quaint and very beautiful village but the rain kept us and most of our shipmates on board.

Gennie and I, in our room, watched Nicholas Nickelby. A good film. The ship left the port a little early to get out with the tide. As soon as we cleared the port mouth, the seas became very heavy and the winds really picked up.

We are on the side of the ship where the pilot is picked up and that was a exciting (for the pilot) experience. About every third wave, the pilot boat would be completely covered by the spray! Spectacular. I think the ship had a run on sea sickness pills.

At 7:15 we went to the Crow’s Nest and at that height the wave and wind action was significant. At 8:15 we went to dinner where we had King Crab Legs with drawn butter. As we were eating, our server Yopi bought out two more servings.

He had suggested we have a double order and we had passed them up. But he was so nice and brought it out anyway. We did eat it. Crepes Suzette for dessert.

We returned to our room to finish this journal. The Indonesian crew will have their show tonight. It will be at 11 PM and I do not think I will make it. The sea is much higher now than at any time on this trip as we cross the St. George’s Channel on our was to St. Peter Port in Guernsey.



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