Chile & Argentina: Andes To Patagonia Day 15

Day 15 - Monday, March 30, 2015 - Explore Los Glaciares National Park; Discover Perito Moreno Glacier; View Beech Forests & The Steppe

Christian left the hotel for the airport early to see if he could get more information on the transportation strike set for tomorrow. We will know more when the whole country understands the situation.

It was a beautiful day with bright sun and blue skies. The temperature was 53 degrees and the humidity was 64%. Sebastian reminded us that in Patagonia this meant nothing. The weather changes quickly, especially at the glacier. And “Winter is Coming”…..

We did not leave for Los Glaciares National Park until 10:00. Sebastian and Andres took us on a little detour past the President's home. Cristina Fernández de Kirchner lives in a quiet neighborhood and in a modest home with surprisingly little security.

Sebastian helped us to learn more about the major different environments in Argentina. We have seen rain forests, dry steppes, and then the glaciers that have snow almost every day. The winds coming from the west affect the rainfall and the weather conditions.

In the distance, we could see the snow falling on the southern Andes. The deciduous trees were changing color to a dark red.

When we arrived at the park entrance, Sebastian and Andres registered and paid the fees. We stopped at the campsite to use the restrooms and photographed the austral parakeets. Very noisy, they do not migrate but stay in the park all year around.

Sebastian told us about the UNESCO World Heritage Site that is Los Glaciares. It is more than 1,700 square miles and contains nearly 50 large glaciers and was established in 1937.

Patagonia’s glaciers are formed not by the extreme cold, but by the constant snows. Chile and Argentina both claim parts of the ice cap that is the third largest (only Antarctica and Greenland are larger) in the world.

Perito Moreno Glacier is stable, meaning it is melting but the snow it gains each day makes up for any melting. As we got closer, we could see the blowing snow and feel the wind. We added layers to protect us from the rain and wind.

Sebastian walked with us to the first overlook of the glacier and pointed out a few different routes we could take to get a full discovery of the ice. We took the Yellow Route, the closest to the face of the glacier.

There were several opportunities to see large chunks of ice breaking away from the 200-foot tall leading edge. Perito Moreno is an active glacier and calving is a regular event.

The 3-mile wide leading face with its deep blue ice was a natural wonder, but the footpaths constructed by the National Park Service were amazing. Concrete pillars held a sturdy grated aluminum six-foot wide elevated walkways and viewing platforms. The railings were just as sturdy.

After completing the yellow route we tackled the red path, which was longer and a bit more challenging. We had a good workout completing the whole circuit.

We had time to go into the lodge to have a little lunch before Andres came back with the bus. When we left the glacier and the park at 2:15 the temperature was 55 degrees, with 56% humidity, and it had begun to rain.

It was only 3:30 when we returned to Calafate. Andres dropped us off downtown so we could stop at a pharmacy to see if they would fill one of Vic's prescriptions.

Our first priority was an ice cream shop across the street. We tasted the calafate berry, but chose maracuja, dulce de leche, and lemon chocolate chip instead. We had a pleasant walk back to the hotel and just as we arrived, the weather changed again and it began to pour!

At 6:00 we all met with Christian in the lobby of the hotel to hear the latest news on our return to Buenos Aires on Tuesday. He told us the UTA Transport Union strike also scheduled for Tuesday would last 24 hours.

We will stay here in Calafate as even if we went by bus, because of few roads over the Andes Mountains, it would take 72 hours to get to Buenos Aires.

It is low season now so the hotel will allow us to stay. Another complication, they do not have a LAN flight every day from Calafate to BA and the Aerolíneas Argentinas flights are all full because of Easter and everyone travels for Holy Week.

The soonest we can fly to Buenos Aires would be Friday, April 3rd. We are booked for that flight leaving Calafate in the morning and arriving in Buenos Aires in the afternoon. We will fly to Miami on the overnight flight and arrive in Denver on Saturday morning.

So that is the story - unions are strong in Argentina to be able to shut down the country like that.

Christian has already adjusted our daily activities and we will be up and out early in the morning to go to the Upsala Glacier, also in the Los Glaciares National Park.

Accommodations: Kau Yatun Hotel - - - Meal: B & L

Seeing a glacier calve by the ocean is still on my bucket list. We did see some avalanches from glaciers in the mountains in New Zealand. Love your photos and video! It sounded windy there! I have heard that OAT is good at making necessary changes when things happen like the strike or weather problems. I don't know what you miss in Buenos Aires, but I'm sure you will enjoy staying a bit longer in such a beautiful place!

What an adventure! Calafate was one of my favorite places - have a hat and headband that I bought there to keep warm! And now , not being able to get home - wow! OAT must be ever flexible! Who pays for the extra time you have to spend there?? Enjoy another few days!!

Day 10: Mediterranean Navigation

Antonio, Our Guide

Gardens at the Alcazaba

Roman Theater

Visiting with Picasso

Gennie & Vic, Malaga 2004

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