Chile & Argentina: Andes To Patagonia Day 12

Day 12 - Friday, March 27, 2015 - Overland to Torres del Paine National Park; Porteria to Porteria Long Walk

Back on the road again... We were up and out early, ready to explore the end of the hemisphere. We met Cota at 7:45 and set off to learn more about Punta Arenas. The day was gray with temperature of 52 degrees and humidity of 95% humidity.

Most of the trees in this latitude 53° are already brown and gold and the flowerbeds have been turned over for the coming winter. Because of the temperatures of the surrounding waters of the Straight of Magellan, the land temperatures do not get too cold. It is the wind that makes the weather so severe.

Our first discovery of the day was at the replica of one of Ferdinand Magellan's ships. Cota guided us through the ship, the Nao Victoria, the flagship. The vessel was a Carrack.

A Carrack is larger than a Caravel, but smaller and faster than a Galleon. Built by the Portuguese for ocean exploration, Magellan's ship made the initial voyage to circumnavigate the globe. Although Magellan was killed in the Philippines and did not complete the voyage, 18 of the original crew of 240 survived.

We continued our drive north and Cota gave us more information about the Pacific War. The disputes between Argentina and Chile, during the time of their respective dictators took place in the 1970s.

Territory in the Beagle Channel was the focal point. In 1978 Argentina announced the invasion against Chile and Great Britain. Pope John Paul II made a personal phone call to counsel both countries against a war.

Four years later, in 1982, the dictator of Argentina declared war on Margaret Thatcher and the British. With less than 10% of the total British forces Thatcher defeated Argentina soundly.

The Malvinas or Falkland Islands War was such an embarrassment to Argentina that the army is not respected to this day. Chile supported Britain in the conflict and their neighbors have resented Chile ever since.

As we motored north we saw many of the native birds. A Southern-crested Caracara posed for us for several minutes. On this flat desolate land of Patagonia, cattle and sheep grazed on huge estancias or ranches. We also saw upland geese, black-chested buzzard eagle, Chilean flamingos, and rheas.

At 11:00 we stopped for a coffee and restroom break at a simple cafe but it was closed. On to Plan B; we found another place a few miles father north. We had an espresso with milk, coffee, and chocolate at Rio Ruben's Hotel.

When we returned to the bus at noon, Christian passed out our generous box lunches; two sandwiches, granola bars, trail mix, water, juice, and a chocolate bar for dessert.

Cota continued her discussion about the farms, cattle and sheep production, and the lands of Patagonia. Sheep's wool and lamb meat are the main product of export of the region.

The ranches are an average of 40,000 acres and technology is a huge component of success in ranching. Shepherds rotate the flocks and maintain a strict control over the use of the land.

As the clouds lifted and the sun came out, we could see the peaks of Torres del Paine in the distance. These are not connected to the folded and raised peaks of the Andes Range. Torres del Paine is an intrusion of granite formed because of glaciation that wore away the surrounding materials.

Even though it was the end of the summer, the hanging glaciers were still visible. The first condor of the day glided gracefully overhead searching for prey. Mothers protect your little lambs!

An hour later we passed a pasture with both cattle and sheep. Gliding over the field were a flock of at least 15 Andean condors. Roberto stopped, backed up the bus, and we were able to get out to photograph this OAT moment.

Cota told us about the life cycle of this 40-pound bird with a three-meter wingspan. The social structure is highly organized; they mate for life and only have one chick every two or three years.

Going a bit further we saw a herd of guanacos. Cota told us we would be seeing more during the day so we did not stop. The problem is we could stop every mile for Kodak moments and we would never reach our destinations.

Having said that, we came upon a flock of rheas that were so close to the road, we had to stop again. After the stop for the scenic overlook of the lake, Vic measured the temperature of 74 degrees and no wind. In 2007, it was so windy we had to brace each other to take photographs.

A mile later the bus had to stop while another harem of guanacos crossed the road. Cota took time to tell us about these camel cousins. One dominant reproductive male and scores of females, the harem graze together.

As we entered the National Park, we had a group photo taken with the towers in the background. We began our hike and the temperature was 72 degrees, with 43% humidity, and 7 mph wind.

There were options for the afternoon hike. We chose the five-mile hike, Porteria to Porteria, (Entrance to Entrance) that was 6.5 kilometers and was to take two hours. Eleven of us took on the challenge of walking from Porteria Laguna Amarga to Porteria Sarmiento.

On the hike we had our backs to the sun, which helped immensely, but every time we could we turned around to look at the beautiful towers of Torres del Paine.

Herds of guanacos greeted us at every turn. Not afraid of us, they would pose for pictures until we moved on.

It was 5:25 when we finished the hike and met Roberto and the others. We drove around the huge (927 sq. miles) UNESCO Biosphere Reserve site for another hour and stopped to take photos of the scenic views. Still covered with snow, the peaks sparkled in the sun.

It was 7:00 when we reached the hotel. We found our room, tried to get the Internet connection but the signal was weak and the hotel was full of hundreds of people drawing from the internet’s satellite connection.

Vic was able to go to the lobby late so he could connect with the office computers to post the journal. With another fantastic day behind us, we look forward to visiting the ice fields and glaciers tomorrow.

Accommodations: Lago Grey Hotel - - - Meal: B, L, & D

Your journal is so descriptive....pictures fabulous

What a fantastic day! Your photo of the Torres and lake is magical! I look forward to the glaciers tomorrow!

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