EC Amazon & Galapagos Day 5

Day 05 - Sunday, December 7, 2008 Visit Local Healer-- Canoe Ride on Manduro River--Optional Piranha Fishing--Witness Traditional Healing Ceremony--Cooking

It was our third day in the jungle and several people in our group seemed to be dragging a little this morning. I checked the weather with my trusty Kestrel 3000 and found the temperature to be 76 and 98% humidity.

There were high clouds which did help with the sun’s heat but as we gathered at the lodge in our long pants, long sleeved shirts, and tall rubber boots, we knew it would be warm.

Our morning adventure began at 8 AM when we entered the jungle and hiked along a very slippery and steep path. Our trek took us up the hill side to 1,020 feet of altitude where we found a large kapok tree.

The 270 year old tree has an observation tower constructed around the lower part of the tree. We climbed in groups of 8 to the top of the tower which was over 120 feet tall. This is comparable to walking the stairs of a 12 story building.

At the base of the tree we listened to Eddie who gave us more information about the preserve, and the emergent rain forest level where trees like the kapok grow far above the canopy level.

We also had time for a discussion about conservation issues, the natives of the area, and the Huaranis Tribe, called the Lost Wild Boys, that are still permitted to do logging and hunting here in Ecuador.

Eight of the group climbed to the top with Eddie and the remainder waited below with Antonio. While we waited our turn to climb the observation tower Antonio told us some more information about the remainder of our time here at the Yarina Amazon Lodge.

The steps on the tower were steep and narrow but the view from the top was spectacular. We could see the rain forest below for miles around. The giant kapok trees emerge from the canopy in sporadic and sadly diminishing numbers as the old trees are lumbered or just dying out.

The walk back to the lodge was another learning experience. We stopped frequently to take photographs of the tropical flora.

Marcelo spotted a grasshopper that look exactly like a brown leaf – what great camouflage here! He also caught a ruby poison dart tree frog, a beautiful but deadly red and blue tiny frog. This is the frog that the Quichuan Indians use to harvest the venom for their blow darts.

The first thing we did back at the lodge was to go down to the dock to wash the mud and muck off our tall boots. These rubber boots are hot and uncomfortable but are truly lifesavers and worn by everyone in the jungle.

Each time we come back from an expedition we are offered a glass of cool limeade. Not only is this tasty, but it also replaces the sugar and nutrients we have lost during our hikes.

Surprise, the generator was operational so we had power in the middle of the day. We took a quick shower to take the bug spray off our bodies and turned on our little 8” fan. Electricity – what a luxury!

While Gennie caught up on the notes from the morning, I looked at our photos until it was 12:30 and time for lunch.

Eddie invited us to go fishing for piranha but Gennie and I declined. I went down to the dock to watch the experts fish using the traditional method of a hand line and a hook. Several people caught small silver fish but there were no piranha!

For our last adventure of the day we donned our jungle gear one last time. Eddie and Marcello paddled our canoe down the river. We hiked deep into the jungle where we met Rafael, the local shaman, or native healer.

While Eddie translated, Rafael answered our questions so we could have a better understanding of the religious, mystical, and medicinal ancient practices of this region.

There are two aspects of the ceremony, first the cleansing and then the healing. After smoking a cigarette and drinking a trance producing liquid, alawaska, Rafael used a shaker of sacred leaves to chase away the evil spirits.

He passed smoke over the heads of Milena and Rosemary who volunteered to be the first cleansed. The next volunteers were Winnie and Marilyn.

After thanking Rafael we moved under a thatched roof hut for our Cooking Class. Judy volunteered to be the chef’s assistant. Al volunteered to be the dessert master.

Judy helped to cut up the fish which was salted and then wrapped in vigao leaves, from the banana family. Al’s job was a little more difficult. He had to clean the native delicacy, the larva of the palm grub, called choata curo. These were skewered and placed over the grill to cook.

In addition to the fish, we had small grilled bananas, green plantains broiled, and a salad of palm hearts and grubs in a spicy salsa. Many of us tried the grilled choata curo.

I thought they tasted like bacon. Once you got over the thought of what you were eating we all decided they were pretty tasty.

This afternoon was an intimate encounter that gave us insights into the daily activities of the people from the Amazon basin. All of these experiences brought us closer to understanding the rain forest and its native traditions.

We returned to the lodge to shower one more time and catch up on our day’s journal and photos. At 6:30 we all got back together at the lodge and Eddie asked us to evaluate the highlights of our time at the Yarina Lodge. Antonio talked to us about the details of our day tomorrow and our flight back to Quito.

After dinner we returned to our room at 8:15 and organized our tips to the staff at the Lodge, packed our bags, and prepared for the flight tomorrow.

Accommodations: Yarina Amazon Lodge - - - Meal: B, L, D

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Interesting days in the jungle. I would like to have seen a photo from above the rain forest jungle, when you got to the top of the long climb. I am looking forward to your accounts from the Galapagos.

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