Turkeys M Hideaways Day 12
Turkeys M Hideaways
Day 12 - 04/18/06 Visit Greek Kayakoy, Hike to Soguk Su, Visit Gemiler Island
We slept well as the ship rocked at the dock last night. We woke up before our alarm went off and were pleased to find hot water again this morning. The ship has a limited supply of fresh clean water and only a generator for electricity so we have to be conservative and creative with both.
At 8 AM we met our group on the deck for breakfast. Although it was a little chilly, the fresh air was invigorating. After we ate, our captain and crew readied our ship for departure and about 9 we waved goodbye to Fethiye and started our two hour trip to Gemiler.
We began our cruise along the craggy Mediterranean coast. We made a landing on a small beach in the Bay of Gemiler, and we were picked up by a mini van and drove to a spot near Kayakoy, a Greek "ghost town." From there, we began our hike to Kayakoy, on a rarely used trail that followed the side of a hill full of carob trees, thyme, and bay, with incredible vistas of inlets and lacy coastline.
Anatolian Greeks once inhabited this city, with about 600 houses. During the 1920s, the entire Christian population was relocated to Greece in the aftermath of the Turkish War of Independence. It is an eerie and moving place, a tragic reminder of how politics can affect human lives. The hike took three hours as we walked first uphill, and then descended through a rocky path to a cove at Soguk Su. The rock outcroppings are home to many turtles and many beautiful spring wildflowers.
As we crested the hill we saw the gorgeous expansive turquoise coastline as well as a small cove where Mustafa, our sailor, took us back to our gulet in a small dingy. There was a little time before lunch and the hike had been hot and dusty so I took a little dip in the sea. Although it was not cold, the water was cool so I did not linger too long!
We had an interesting lunch of stuffed peppers, eggplant, an zucchini as well as another great tomato salad and a variety of other vegetables. With a little time before our next adventure, Gennie finished another book and I sorted a few of our thousands photographs.
In the English tradition, we had tea and cookies at 4:30 and then at 5 PM we were taken the island of St. Nicholas, also called Gemiler Island, where we visited a sixth-century Byzantine monastery and ancient churches and refectories. We hiked to the top of the island, about a 400-foot elevation gain, for a breathtaking view of the azure channel below. A team of Japanese archeologists have just finished a five year project of exploration and a minor restoration of this island.
We were back on the gulet and in the shower by 6 PM. As the sun set over the peninsula, we were on the deck enjoying the local vodka and the company of our group before dinner. Our dinner was served at 8, where we were served a delicious local fish and other Turkish delights. After dinner our captain joined us for dessert and we were able to ask him some questions about his life and career at sea.
Meltem offered to show us a National Geographic video on the famous "Evil Eye" hand make glass beads that we have seen guarding all homes, cars, and the people of Turkey. I sorted our day's pictures and then we were in bed by 10:30.
Accommodations: Gulet - - - Meals: B, L, D
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