The Best of Portugal Day 5
The Best of Portugal
Day 5 - September 7, 2002 - Albufeira to Evora
We got up at 7:30 with our wake-up call. After a shower and packing, we had the two suitcases out the door and went down for breakfast. As yesterday, coffee, juice, great Portuguese bread, jelly, butter and cheese. One could have eggs, bacon, and all sort of sweet rolls but I have not been in the mood.
After breakfast we began our journey cross the Serra de Caldeirao and the towns of Castro Verde and on to Beja. We had the front seat on the bus this morning, right behind the driver. We did 100 KPH on the "interstate" and we never passed anyone. I saw a second silver S2000 this morning but I was in the bus and he crossed in front.
We crossed land that is very dry, reminding us of eastern Wyoming or in some areas, around Santa Fe. Beja was very nice and so were the people. They were very happy to have their picture taken and then when I showed them the digital, they were amazed and usually laughed. One woman with a bouquet of flowers wanted to show all her friends and one had her picture taken also.
This woman then tracked me down and asked if I would send her a copy. No problem. I asked an old fashioned barber shop if I could take their picture and they suggested that I have Gennie sit in a chair and then take the picture. They had a big laugh on that one. Then Gennie went next door and had a Baskin and Robbins Ice Cream. Even here in the middle of agricultural Portugal, Gennie can find an American ice cream.
We went around the town and took a lot of other pictures. The Romans founded this area and had been here so there were some ruins. There is an old (1200's) tower called Castle Keep that is the highest in Europe. Very impressive against the sky. There was a city street market going on so we got a chance to see that.
We left Beja and traveled northeast toward Evora. This city is Portugal's most vibrant town in the medieval and Renaissance period. We were given about two hours to have some lunch (cost me 2.50 Euros) and we walked all around this walled city and through its narrow alleys and streets. I took a lot of pictures here and it was very interesting to see houses with tiles and yellow trim on white.
The group was joined by local tour guide (Lenore) and she took us around. First by bus to get a feel and then walking. We came upon some Roman temples that were in excellent shape. Then we visited the Gothic Cathedral that took over 50 years to build and the spires are completely different from each other.
We then walked to the center of town where she mentioned the history of the city and its leaders. The city center was named for Giraldo the Fearless who in 1155 ousted the Moors when he seduced the Moorish princes and when she opened the door for him to enter the walled city, he beheaded her and then did the same to her father.
Then we went to the 15 century Church of Sao Francisco but there was a wedding in progress. So, we went next door to the macabre Ossos (Bones) Chapel from the 17th century, built by the Franciscan Monks and it is made up of bones, skulls and two mummified corpses. They think from so many people who died of the plague.
We also walked up the quaint Rua 5 de Outubro where we had a chance to see lots of artisans displaying their wares. Very nice also but Gennie fought the impulse to buy anything. The guide was interesting as she told us that in the traditional Portuguese family, the head of the household is the mother and in honor of the Virgin Mary, all the daughters are named Maria something or something Maria.
We then took the bus to the Hotel Albergaria Vitoria where we have a very small room on the first floor. Gennie just called and they said there is no open internet in the hotel or in the town as it is Saturday. On the weekend everything is closed for both days.
I heard that there was a bar downtown so we took a taxi and finally found this hole in the wall bar and it was very smoky and horrible. But we were able to use the connection after three tries. Everyone in the bar kept checking us out as we were much older than the clientele. We walked all the way home and still smelled like smoke.
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