Channel Adventure Day 9

Day 09 - Monday, April 16, 2018 – Drive to Concale; Explore the Commune; Seafood Lunch

We woke up to sunny skies and the temperature was 51 degrees. After our 9:00 breakfast we were off to explore more of the region of Brittany. We set our GPS for Cancale and headed west and north along the coastal road.

Following the maps Vic had prepared; we also listened to our eye in the sky to find our destination. The GPS had a soothing but persistent female voice. She got very upset with us if we stopped to take a photo or take a turnoff to explore a small cove. After we got back on “her” designated route she was forgiving and we could continue.

The Passat has some interesting smart car features that take getting used to. The windshield wipers go on automatically when even a few drops could possibly block our view.

We needed my brother Jim to translate the driver’s manual for us that was only in French. Using the Cruise Control feature took us awhile, but we finally figured it out, as there were a few illustrations in the book.

When the car approached a slower vehicle, the cruise control automatically shuts down, preventing rear-end collisions. There were warning beeps when you got too close to an object in front or on the sides of the car. Amazing new technology!

After leaving Beauvoir, we took the limited access highway for a few kilometers and then got back on the Rue de Baie, Route of the Bay. There were many apple orchards in bloom as this area was noted for its calvados, an apple brandy.

The narrow roads were difficult enough to maneuver with no shoulder, many tractors pulling oyster-laden trailers, and tourists in campers. Added to the drama on the roads were many groups of bicyclists who have equal access and speed along the country roads almost silently. We are learning to be ever more vigilant!

Along the coast were many windmills, originally used for pumping water or grinding grain. Now their stately blades have been removed and they have been converted to homes, gift shops, or even Bread and Breakfast establishments.

When we reached the little commune of Cancale, one of the quaint villages on France’s Emerald Coast, we could see the many shades of the green water. We drove to the main center of the upper city and found a post office to buy a few more stamps and a bank to withdraw a few more Euros.

The small central park had a very distinctive fountain of two women washing oysters, the mainstay of the community. The fountain was named Les Laveuses d’Huitres by Jean Freour. As oysters are still the lifeblood of the community; this fountain commemorates the work the women did washing the oysters.

History tells us that the soldiers of Julius Caesar ate oysters and King Louis XIV had fresh oysters brought daily from Cancale to Versailles. We were in the oyster capital of the world!

We parked our car in one of the downtown lots and walked along the sea front to the oyster markets. Along the way we saw many restaurants located in the homes of former sea captains and rich merchants who thrived in the 1600’s harvesting the jewels of the sea from these cold waters of the Atlantic.

The mansions were well preserved and looked like they could welcome home those lost seafarers any day. As the tide was going out we could see the oyster beds stretching as far as the horizon.

We watched the fishermen and women driving tractors with huge tires and pulling long trailers drive on to the tidal basin to gather the oyster flats. The young oysters are put into large rope-mesh pillowcase like nets. The water from the currents washes over them as they grow to eating maturity, about 2 to 5 years.

After exploring the Harbor of La Houle, we climbed to the top of the lower city and visited the Memorial to the Soldiers killed in World War I and World War II. The names of each man who perished from Cancale were etched into the monument.

After climbing back down to the harbor we chose, Le Phare, one of the many seafood cafés and enjoyed a Parisian salad with ham, cheese, and fresh greens and a large pot of freshly steamed mussels in white wine and scallions. We also had a side of potatoes, French fried of course. Bon Appétit!

We took our time enjoying our lunch and then walked back looking at the spectacular views over the Baie du Mont-Saint-Michel. The air was so clear today that we could see Mont St. Michel Abbey out in the distance.

At 3:30 we left Cancale and drove back to our Beauvoir with a quick stop at the grocery store and to get gas. Negotiating French gas stations was another learning experience for the day.

A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.

Lao Tzu

Accommodations: Les Vieilles Digues B&B - - - Meal: B