Salvador, Recife, FdeN Day 8

Day 08 - Monday, December 19, 2011 – Island Tour Fernando de Noronha, Pernambuco, BR

Sabina picked us up right after breakfast to go on the Island Tour. We had contracted with her to do an individual tour and Heidi and Juliane our Norwegian friends went along to not only have a great English speaking guide but also to share the costs.

We walked to the 4x4 dune buggy rental to pick up our vehicle. We also rented snorkel gear from them and we were on our way. Sabina was in the driver’s seat and Gennie sat beside her in the front seat.

Our first task was to go to the gas station (there is only one) to buy R$ 40 worth of gas. Sabina told us that gas was about 4 times as expensive as on the mainland and often not of very good quality.

She also mentioned that the dune buggy we were riding in cost R$ 80,000 used on the island and about R$20,000 for a brand new one in Natal. It is matter of supply and demand.

After we got gas the buggy sputtered and backfired on the way to pick up the girls. Sabina went right back to the rental pace and they gave us the other buggy in the yard.

We picked up Heidi and Juliane and we were off to explore the whole island. Our first stop was at Mirante dos Golfinhos (Overlook of the Dolphins). We drove on rocky dirt roads up steep curves.

At the top we walked to the overlook and met a dolphin counter from the National Park who sits for four hours at a stretch with a clicker in one hand and binoculars in the other. Her job is to count the number of pods and individual dolphins that come into the bay.

Gennie asked her how she knew which were new dolphins and which were already counted. She explained that the 225 we were watching had come in together.

If more joined them or smaller groups entered her counting area, she would add them to her total. Not an exact science, but it gives the park service an idea of the numbers of these beautiful mammals around the islands.

We also saw several sea turtles. From the cliff, it was hard to see the dolphins and sea turtles, but even with a naked eye, we were very excited to get into the water for a closer view.

From the overlook we walked to several more vistas, each one more stunning than the last. The waves were high and the surf very turbulent.

We hiked for another 20 minutes to overlook Baia do Sancho where we had snorkeled yesterday. We could see many people in the water by the boats in the bay, but not many on the beach in the rough surf.

Getting to the beach from the cliff was a challenge. We had to climb down a steep ladder hung in a cave between two volcanic boulders. Then we hiked for a few more steps to the next ladder also attached to the narrow opening between the rocks.

With wide bodies, sandals, backpacks, and snorkel gear it was a tough climb. The next test was a steep staircase encrusted with years of layers of sand. We finally made it to the beach and found it beautiful.

The waves looked so much calmer from the top of the cliff. As we entered the water we found out just how treacherous they could be. It was very difficult to put on our fins when we were being buffeted by the undertow and the crashing waves.

All five of us left our belongings under the one tree as did the others swimming, surfing, and snorkeling. As incredible as it might seem, people really look out for each other on the islands and Sabina said we did not have to worry about anyone taking anything.

There were very few fish and no turtles or dolphins in the water. However, after our long hike, the water was refreshing. We climbed back up the narrow chasm and then walked back to the buggy. The owner had exchanged our vehicle for the first one that we thought he had repaired.

Sabina suggested having lunch at the Bar do Cachorro. The high heat and humidity made us more thirsty than hungry, but we decided we would split a meal.

The young women had the chicken plate and we had the fish. It was fantastic. Three side dishes were offered; we chose the tomato and onion salad, fried potatoes, and the onions tempura. All were excellent and nothing was sent back to the kitchen on any of our plates.

After lunch we visited the Tamar Turtle Research Center and waited out a short rain storm. Then, as we were already very sandy and wet, we set out to visit more beaches and overlooks.

The buggy started acting up and finally gave out all together. No amount of coaxing or kind words would get it going. We made it to the Mirante do Leão overlook

From there we could see our goal the Praia do Leão and several turtles swimming in the bay. Sabina tried to call the rental agency but the cell service was bad today.

Heidi, Juliane, and I pushed the buggy while Sabina steered and Gennie took a few pictures. We were able to get the buggy to the next hill and coasted into Baia do Sueste, where we had seen the turtles.

We had to rent life jackets because the park service does not want anyone stepping on the little coral that is there. The turbulence of the waves made for a very cloudy view and the swim was very tough in the undertow and the high waves.

None of us saw much of anything at all, only a few very small fish. Just as we were going back in Gennie, who was several yards behind us, saw a hawk’s beak turtle swim right beneath her. We all saw several sting rays as we were heading back through the sea weed to the beach.

By the time we finished snorkeling, the rental agent had come to adjust the carburetor a little and we started back. On our way we stopped at Bahia Cacimba do Padre just at dusk.

A fisherman on the beach gave us several sardines and told us to hold them up. The sea birds had played this game before and came zooming in for the easy catch.

We watched the huge frigate birds grab the tiny fish from Juliane and Heidi’s hands in-flight. When Sabina raised an empty hand in the air, the birds were not the least bit interested. Smart birds!

It was getting dark so we headed back to town. Sabina agreed to help schedule a boat tour for us in the morning. It was a different boat, but generally the same tour as we had yesterday and enjoyed so much.

Before we even opened our door, we found an outdoor water faucet and cleaned the sand from our legs, feet, and sandals.

A clean shower felt great and then we went to work on the journal and the photos. There was no internet service at all tonight. We will have to post the journal when we get a connection.

Accommodations: Pousada Lenda Águas --- Meal: B

It sounds like you are having a wonderful adventure and getting in a lot of interesting exercise! We have a snow day today instead of a teacher workday, so the Christmas vacation began a day early for teachers.

Day 13: Azores & Madeira: Portugal's Unspoiled Archipelagos

Island Beauties

Island Beauties

Island Beauties

Island Beauties

Island Beauties

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Day 13 - Saturday, April 22, 2022 - Depart for U.S.

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