Brasil - SP&Pantanal Day 9

Day 09 - Wednesday, August 5, 2009 – Drive to Boca da Onça and then to Bonito

The only other thing up this morning at 3:50 am was the moon! We took a quick shower, finished packing, and then we had a very light breakfast of toast and coffee.

Our new driver Claudio had arrived last night to take us on the next leg of our journey. We left the Pousada right on time at 5:00.

Retracing our path over the 12 km farm road and then over the 20 wooden bridges to the main road that was even more treacherous this morning in the dark.

We reached the main road just as it was beginning to get light and found even more delays due to road construction. The engineers here have a very short working season, between the rains and flooding, they must work when they can.

When we reached the junction of the main road back to Campo Grande and another road to Bonito, we turned right on a secondary paved road. Because there was no other traffic, Claudio stopped and was told that the road was closed because the bridge was out.

Claudio drove back a few miles and then took a gravel road and a detour to get to Boca da Onça. There were no other cars on this road which was not a comfortable feeling.

At 8:40 we saw the sign for the Cachoeiros Boca da Onça. The land is much more rugged here with forest covered peaks that our naturalist called mountains.

We arrived at the lodge about 9:00 and were welcomed by Chris, our guide who explained we were waiting for another group and would be 7 all together on the tour.

We asked about the repelling into the waterfalls that was advertised on the internet site, but she said we could not do that because we had not made arrangements in advance. This was a big disappointment for Bob and me but I am trying to take Bob’s advice and let some things go that I cannot change.

After seeing several car loads of people arrive we knew there would be more than 7 – we ended up with 21 in our group. Tia was not a happy camper but we tried to make the best of it.

We began our 5 km hike into the heavy primary forest – Chris reminded us to be quiet so we could see animals but with 21of us and two guides there was no chance for either being quiet or spotting wildlife. While Antonio followed at the end – we started out trek.

There were several opportunities for us to swim in the crystal clear pools beneath the water falls that make this area famous. The first was through a low overhang and then under a huge rock formation, and into a small cold pool. Thomas was usually the first one in the water, but Bob and I soon followed.

As we walked down the side of the mountain on log steps or rock formations slippery with green moss, we could always hear the sounds of the water falls all around us.

We all talked about the amount of water now in the dry season, and we could only imagine what it is like in the rainy months. About three hours into our trek we reached a small kiosk. There were rest rooms and a place to buy water and cold drinks.

Chris reminded us that we would be going into the most serious part of the walk; and if there were any people with medical problems, a truck would take them back to the lodge. No one turned around – we were all up for the challenge.

We continued for another 40 minutes until we reached the large blue-green lake of the Boca da Onça waterfall. While the rest swam in the river, Gennie, Antonio and I climbed another 150 feet of elevation to the falls itself.

Antonio took a nap while Gennie and I swam in the clear pool and took pictures of this marvelous work of nature. The falls itself is hundreds of feet high – with several prominent rock formations.

The most incredible is a huge face of a jaguar, an onça, hence the name of the falls. It would be impossible to see it during the wet season, but with little water, one can pick out the two big eyes and the mouth or boca.

After a bit, the rest of the group found the waterfalls and joined in the fun swimming in the water and under the falls. We were allowed about 45 minutes more before it was time to pay our dues and make the climb back up the mountain.

The 876 steps up the steep mountain side were not for the faint of heart or those with a fear of heights. Although it was not a race, Bob, Thomas, and I led the pack to the top. Gennie and Tia brought up the rear but when they got to the top, the whole group congratulated them for their persistent efforts.

When we reached the top, our vans and the truck were waiting for us. It was 3:15 and we went straight to the lodge for lunch. It was a typical farm meal; salad, beef, chicken, potatoes, and of course – rice and beans.

We sat out on the patio and enjoyed the beauty of the Pantanal. Thomas went into the swimming pools that have many varieties of fish also swimming in the fresh water.

By 5:00 we had taken showers, gathered our belongings and met Claudio who would take us on to the city of Bonito. The full moon brightened our ride on the bumpy road and it was 6:30 when we reached the Tapera Hotel.

We settled in, found places to store our things for the next three days, and began sorting photos and Gennie typed the journal. Tomorrow we will have another guide, Rodger who will accompany us for the next few days here in Bonito.

It is a good thing we hike the hills of Palmer Divide every day in Colorado so our legs were ready for this adventure. Even so, we were both tired and ready for a good rest.

"Although it was not a race..." Ya, right, I've seen you in action!

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Day 13 - Saturday, April 22, 2022 - Depart for U.S.

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