Route of the Maya

DAY 9 - 12/02/05 - Overland to Guatemala City

This morning we had a simple breakfast, quickly checked our e-mails, and had our luggage ready at 7:30. The day was very clear and the views of the volcano peaks were spectacular! We were on the bus at 8:00 and had our last view of the lakeside panorama before we traveled to sprawling Guatemala City, passing patchwork landscapes of vegetable plantations along the way.

Our first stop was just a little ways up the road to see the Buena Adventura water fall. We traveled over the road that was destroyed in the mud slides after the hurricanes in October. There was an OAT group here at the Lake at the time which was stranded for an additional 3 days and was evacuated by helicopter.

We had an opportunity to take photos of a Village Cemetery which had been painted in very bright colors. Judith told us of the ceremonies of death. The remains are prepared by putting ears of corn with the body and a piece of jade under the tongue for safe passage to heaven, the afterlife or super world. According to the legend, the Mayans believe that this lifetime will end December 28th, 2012.

The highlight of the morning was a visit to the market Sololá - what an experience! There were thousands of local indigenous people who were buying and selling produce, flowers, beads, shoes, chickens, and anything else one might want. Judith had told us to leave all of our valuables in the bus and just take our cameras as the people have "silk hands"! Movement between the stalls was very difficult as all the natives were pushing and shoving to get the best buys and we were right in the middle and in their way. I have never had so many people touch my bottom in my life. For an old man this was a real thrill - fortunately they did not get my money.

On the way out of town, Judith told us all about the Mayan calendar, similar to a horoscope. A spiritual leader, similar to the one that we met yesterday helps the people to make decisions and gives the blessings. She also explained about the Poplo Vuj, a book of the Mayan teachings, comparable to our Bible. It was translated in 1592 from Mayan to Spanish; interestingly there is a story about the creation similar to the one we know from Genesis.

We made a 20 minute stop for restrooms at Chichoy Restaurante in Agua Escondida. We were able to stretch our legs, get a Coke, and see a bit more of the rural culture. We also witnessed more of the devastation from the flooding rivers that tore through this rural area.

At noon, we entered the outskirts of Guatemala City, the capital. Guatemala City is one of the largest urban areas of Central America. Founded in early 1776, the colonial settlers believed they had picked a strategic location within the surrounding mountains that would prevent the shock of earthquakes. Unfortunately, this was not the case. Several massive earthquakes in recent history, most notably in 1917 and 1918, destroyed most of the lovely colonial architecture that once graced the city. There are about 3 million people living here, and like any big city it is important to be safe and cautious.

On the way into the capital we saw many barrios and poor settlements. The streets were very busy with commerce on the sidewalks and in the stores. Many stores and restaurants have an armed guard for protection.

We went to the National Palace which was built in 1937 by the then dictator Jorge Ubico who used street labor for its construction. We had a tour of the opulent facilities seeing large murals depicting the history and struggle of the Guatemalan people.

We also walked to the Cathedral but it was not open today so we walked around the large public plaza while Judith gave us more history of her country. Only since 1996 has Guatemala had true peace, but many still suffer from the civil and guerilla wars. We met Carlos and proceeded on a city tour. We passed most government buildings, major shopping areas and on the Avenida de la Reforma we passed the American Embassy, much smaller than the one in El Salvador.

We arrived at the Stofella Best Western Hotel at 2 PM and were given our room card. We went to our room, washed our hands, put up our carry-ons and got our luggage. By 2:15 we were out the door to get a bite to eat. We met Estrellita in the lobby and she joined us on our quest for a place to eat lunch.

We walked two blocks and found the Taco Inn. We sat down, had a margarita, ate taco kebabs with all the condiments they could put on the table and enjoyed each other's company. We walked back to the hotel, downloaded the pictures, and then decided to walk the area around the hotel to get some exercise. Our hotel is located in the fashionable Zona Viva, or lively zone, brimming with shops, restaurants, and nightclubs.

At nightfall, 5:30, we returned to our hotel and looked at our email accounts and returned to the room to work on the journal.

Accommodations: Hotel Stofella - - - Meals: B

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