Route of the Maya Day 8
Route of the Maya
DAY 8 - 12/01/05 - Lake Atitlán Boat Tour/Explore Santiago/Visit Local Families in San Antonio Palopo
Today is our 32nd Anniversary. OAT is very good about celebrating important days and the manager of the hotel, Yolanda, Judith, and Carlos greeted us at breakfast with a cake, candle, and the staff sang Happy Anniversary to us.
After breakfast we went right to the local museum, Museo Lacustre, where we saw a scale model of Lake Atitlán and the surrounding volcanic peaks and Mayan artifacts. At 8:30 we walked down to the boat dock where we met our captain, Vincente for our boat ride on the Lake. We boarded a small 16 passenger craft to go across the center of this dormant caldera.
Over 85,000 years ago a gigantic volcanic explosion formed this lake. The results of this tumultuous period are quite breathtaking. The lake is located over 5,000 feet above sea level, with three imposing volcanoes gracing its southern edge: San Pedro, Toliman, and Atitlán. Because of this stunning location and arresting scenery, this lake has been called "the closest thing to Eden on earth." With a depth of more than 1,000 feet, it is the deepest lake in the Western Hemisphere.
From the center of the lake we could see the volcanic peaks in Antigua, not far as the crow flies, but several hours on the winding roads over the hills. As we got closer to the volcanoes we saw the extensive terracing and quilted patterns of the hillsides for agriculture.
We docked at the small village of Santiago and walked to a textile market in this lakeside town. The original Maya Indians settled here centuries ago, making this is the heart of the Mayan world. Their ancient traditions, beliefs, and crafts are preserved in the many colorful Maya textiles, with their distinctive geometric patterns, that are created here before being sold throughout the country. We saw the fruits of the labors of the women who work the waist looms and the men who are in charge of the foot looms.
We also learned about the traveling statue of Maximon- a Mayan deity still remembered here-and even had a chance to sit in on a service to watch a Chuch Kálian visit with him. We walked around the city and we were welcomed into a home of a young woman who had nine children. They invited us to visit their meager home, much of it destroyed by the earthquake. It helped us to know the simple but proud life they lead here in this village.
Then we moved to the Cathedral of St. James Atitlán where we learned even more about the Catholic religion and the intertwining of the Mayan Culture. Because of the earthquakes, many people have no homes and have moved into the church and the schools for shelter. The children are very aggressive sales people - very poor and depend on the few tourists who buy a few weavings and other trinkets.
After our visit to Santiago we crossed the lake and stopped at San Lucas Tolimán. We were greeted at a quaint restaurant overlooking the lake with bright balloons and wishes for a Happy Anniversary. We had a wonderful lunch of fresh black bass from the lake and typical plates of beef, beans, and cheese.
At about 2:00 in the afternoon, we were back on the boat and traveled to meet with families in the village of San Antonio Palopo, a settlement lined with adobe homes and indigenous people wearing traditional dress, to learn the art of weaving intricate patterns on a variety of Maya looms. The people were as poor as we have seen and it was hard to know that what living they make is eked out of the mountainous soil with a small plot of land and weavings from a small loom. Life here is very difficult.
At 4:00, when we got back to the boat, the wind had come up and the clouds were rolling in over the volcano tops. Our captain had to drive the boat very slowly as the waves were very high and parallel to our little craft. We could no longer see the little canoes and one-manned fishing boats, they know enough not to be on the lake at this time of day when the winds are blowing in from the Pacific!
On the hillsides as we followed the shore, we saw many huge and elegant estates along the banks of the lake. Their manicured lawns and terraced gardens are accessible only by boat but while we were passing, a helicopter landed on one of the lawns and let out two passengers and their baggage that was quickly gathered in by their servants. Judith told us this is the way the rich get to their weekend resorts! In our next life…..!!!!
By 5:15 we were back in Panajachel, and we had time to look at our photos from the day and Gennie answered her e-mail and worked a bit with her UOP classes.
At 7:30 we went to the restaurant next to the hotel and by the beach and had a quiet dinner to celebrate our anniversary together.
Accommodations: Posada Don Rodrigo Atitlan - - - Meals: B, L
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