Eternal Nile Day 10
Eternal Nile
DAY 10 - Monday, December 6, 2004 - Camel Ride to St. Simeon Monastery, Camel Ride to Nubian Village, Lunch at Nubian Restaurant
What a treat - no wake up call today! We woke up at 7:00 and had a leisurely breakfast. We met our group at the lobby at 8:30 and then met a motorboat that took us all the way around the island.
We were then dropped off on the West Bank to meet our camels for a short jaunt to the monastery. Each of us was given a specific guide and camel that would be with us all morning.
Our trip to the top of the desert hill was about 15 minutes, going up a narrow and steep path through the rocks and shifting sands. The
visit to the Monastery of St. Simeon was very interesting, very isolated, and considering what we went through to get there, the monks had no problem keeping their vows to give up the ways of the world!
This holy place was built in the 6th century, and is a fortress-like structure, surrounded by vast desert sand dunes. It is one of the best-preserved early Christian sites in all of Egypt.
A caretaker took us on a tour of the ruins, of course, no longer in use because there is no longer a water source to the site. He explained each room and the function of the monks while they served there long ago. We spent about an hour exploring the ancient Coptic Center and then walked back to the gate where our camels awaited us.
We boarded our "ships of the desert", by the way, they did not seem too happy to see us, and we were off for another journey, this time for about one hour over the desert sands and rocks. The camel ride is surprisingly smooth and these animals complain little while they are working.
As soon as we were out of too much congestion, our guides let go of the reins and we were free to guide the animals as best we could. This was actually easier as the camel would rather not have the tug from the handlers and seemed to enjoy trudging along at its own pace.
Taking pictures was difficult with the gait of these animals but some came out - bright sunny day with Colorado blue skies providing a lot of light.
We arrived at the Nubian village of West Aswan and the camels found their way through the narrow streets to the home of our OAT hosts for tea and some midmorning delicacies. We were welcomed by several veiled hostesses, all cousins of the owner of the home of this extended family.
We were seated in their "living room" and served typical Nubian and hibiscus teas. We also had spicy stuffed cabbage, falafel, and flat bread. After chatting and seeing them show us their home, one of the ladies offered to paint henna tattoos on the hands of their guest for 20 LE ($3.40).
Many had their's done including several men. We were allowed to take pictures with the understanding that we would mail them a print. I agreed to do this as I have done in many other places. One older woman wanted money - which is very typical here.
As we left this family, much better off financially than when we arrived, we saw how brightly colored the Nubian homes are, both inside and out. We walked through the streets of the city, wandered by irrigation canals portraying lazy and tranquil scenes of the countryside.
To get to the boat we had to pass through several little stalls selling Egyptian knick-knacks. We also went past a school and I was able to get a picture of a female student when I promised her my pen. It was a simple Bic but she was thrilled to have it.
When we arrived at the motorboat we all got on and were greeted by a 14 year old boy who was a comedian. He could speak English well enough to make us all laugh and as he tried to sell our camel photos, we all realized that the pictures had been mixed up with the other OAT boat.
I made like I was crying and he came over and hugged and consoled me as we both laughed. We motored by our hotel, docked at the restaurant just in front of the Aswan Club Med location.
At the Nubian Restaurant we were seated and given the opportunity to use the facilities to wash our hands and get ready for lunch. Once we were all seated we were given an opportunity to order our food.
There were several options: grilled fish, chicken or beef and beef chicken and fish in the traditional red sauce with onions, peppers and garlic. We were served some very spicy appetizers along with an excellent flat bread.
When the meal was served they were very large portions so I was very glad to share Gennie's fish and rice. For dessert they gave us little bananas that were very sweet.
We were back on the boat at 1:30 PM and returned to the hotel. On the way there, the 14 year old young man taught and led us all on a Nubian song and dance. When we arrived at Elephantine Island and our hotel, Shahinaz offered to have the boat take us across to the city of Aswan.
Gennie and I wanted to use the internet so we took this opportunity. Walking at this time of day is a good experience as it is sunny and warm (hot?). We used the internet at the Rowing Club. Usually it costs 5 LE (80 cents) to check all of our accounts and then we walked back to the pier and the ride across to the hotel.
Our room was nice and cool and we had 4 hours to rest, work on pictures, and enjoy the scenery across the river at the desert and the ruins from our top floor room.
At 6:30 PM we met in the lobby and walked down to the landing to get on the boat. The captain, an older Nubian, the name given to people from Egypt and Sudan who have very dark black skin and pearly white teeth, invited me in to steer the boat to the other side.
With over 50 people in the back and Gennie not knowing where I was, I said sure. Shahinaz saw me, laughed, took my picture and then told Gennie. The docking on the other side was a little rough!
Our buses took us to the Makka Restaurant (Egyptian food) and we were served a traditional meal - lots of appetizers are placed on the table, including: sesame seed paste, flat bread, hot pickles, cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions and black eyed peas in red sauce.
Dinner was meat and/or chicken with zucchini in tomato sauce, rice, potatoes in a red sauce, carrots, peas and beans in a red sauce. The red sauce was tomato based but had different flavors.
After dinner we returned to our hotel for a night's rest. Shahinaz took some time to identify some pictures I had from the Cairo Museum that I needed to rename and catalog. I cannot emphasize how much she knows and how willing to help.
Accommodations: Aswan Movenpick Hotel - - - Meals: B, L, D
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