Tunisia-Med-Sahara Day 9

Day 15-10 - Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - Red Lizard Train Excursion/Ride in Horse-drawn Carriages Through Tozeur Oasis/Adobe Brick-making Demonstration

Another beautiful day at the Oasis! It was 55º and 54% humidity.

Last night at 10:30 when we finished posting the journal, Khamis told us we would have to leave earlier than originally planned to get a seat on the train.

We reset our alarm and we were out to breakfast at 7:30. We had our morning meal with Barbara and Vilma and tried to catch people as they came in to let them know of the time change.

Riadh was there to greet us at 8:30 and at 8:38 we took the hour long bus ride to the train station at Metlaoui. We boarded the Red Lizard (Lézard Rouge) Train and then waited to leave for our day’s adventure.

Khamis told us that the same tracks that carry this passenger train also carry the train of phosphate hopper cars from the mines. Cargo trains always take priority.

When we actually got on the train at 9:25, all of the seats were already taken. We stood inside of the train cars or out on the railing between the cars, trying to find a good vantage point to take photos.

More and more people continued to get on the train. Unquestionably, there were not a limited number of passengers. Au contraire, as many people as possible were stuffed into the cars.

With another 20 people in our car and finally at 10:20, we left the station. The Red Lizard traveled on a century-old narrow-gauge railway. The OAT itinerary says “Once owned by the Bey of Tunis, the train's red cars are furnished with antique brocaded armchairs and brass fittings recalling an earlier era.”

Our train was more like a cattle car with a few wooden benches. OAT will have to update their information!

The ride took us through the spectacular Seldja Gorge. At 11:00 we reached the end of the train line and those who wanted to get off, hopped out to stretch their legs or for many of the other tourists, to have a smoke break.

We retraced our path back through the gorge and then to the train station. Freelance Reporter Rick gave us information saying we traveled 8.4 miles each way and our maximum speed was 18.5 mph

At noon we met Riadh and went directly back to the hotel for lunch. Gennie tracked down our laundry that had been delivered to the room across the corridor and then we went through a few photos from the morning.

Khamis met us at the lobby at 3:00 for a tour of the city of Tozeur. Riadh took us to the center where we got into horse drawn carriages.

We had a much better look at the city which has thrived in a lush oasis on the edge of the vast emptiness of the Sahara Desert. Our driver took us out of town to a brick factory where an artisan gave us an adobe brick-making demonstration.

At 4:00 we got back in the carriage and went through dusty back roads to the spring fed oasis, the lifeblood of the city. We learned that the palm trees shade the bananas which shade the fig trees and pomegranates, which shade the fruit trees, which shade the flowers, strawberries and the vegetables that grow beneath the canopy.

A gentleman showed us how the palm growers cross-pollinate the date palm flowers. Then he demonstrated how he climbed the palm tree to tie up the blossoms for fertilization.

Our drive took us back to the carriage center where Riadh was waiting with the bus. Several of our group wanted to go to the medina shopping, and some back to the hotel.

A few of us accompanied Khamis to a local private museum, the Tozeur Dar Cherait Museum; the very best displays we have seen on this trip.

The building was constructed as a home to display every aspect of the lives of the Tunisians here in this region. Life size dioramas portraying all of the clothing, the jewelry, weapons, and even a kitchen showing how and what they cooked, wrapped up our understanding of the culture.

The sun was setting behind the mosques when we hustled home to our hotel to finish the journal, sort the photos and then to get a quick bite to eat out on the street.

Accommodations: Ras El Ain Hotel - - - Meals: B & L

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Train trip sounds better in description than in actuality. I miss the subways.

Day 10: Mediterranean Navigation

Antonio, Our Guide

Gardens at the Alcazaba

Roman Theater

Visiting with Picasso

Gennie & Vic, Malaga 2004

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